Cutter's Vise

Page 18

posted by: fla jim

Ain't algor's internet great.
I saved the EDM info for a future project.
I think this would be great for broken taps and studs etc.
Thanks Franz.

posted by Cutter    05-02-2004

Somebody spell out "EDM"? This is all new to me. I am not gonna use it on the vise, whatever it means but I want to know about this.

posted by: fla jim

Thats"Electrical discharge machining"
Here's a link that explaines it better than I can.

posted by Cutter    05-04-2004

Thanks Jim,

Somehow I just never noticed this process before, maybe because I don't hang around high end machine shops.   Interesting. I'll read more later, gotta get to work.

posted by: stingers


fla jim got it on the EDM. Think of a band saw and instead of a saw blade a wire EDM machine uses a thin brass wire. One spool holds the new wire and a take-up spool winds up the used wire. It's kind of like MIR wire, except it doesn't melt-just gets "used" and a little ratty looking. The machine has a contact tip that passes an electrical current to the wire. The part being machined has a ground wire that completes the circuit. The wire passes through guides and the part being machined, running in the slot that the wire "cuts" by making electrical discharges to the part. It's like a minnie plasma arc that burns the metal and cuts a path for the wire. The part and the wire is submerged in a bath that cools and carries the "chips" or metal that gets discharged. Cutter, it's just like your rust removal setup with the battery charger, just fancier.

We used them to make die punches and dies and very intricate parts out of steel. Really amazing machines. Internal holes, cutouts, etc. are made by first drilling a pilot hole for the feature. Then the machine operator breaks the brass wire and feeds it through the clearance hole, winds it on the take-up reel and then the feature is machined. When the process is done, the wire is cut and the machine is repositioned to make more cuts if required. The operator could set offsets on his controls to get the exact dimensions for the part being made.

I wrote the programs to make the paper tapes that the machine used for it's instructions to make the complex parts. Simple circles and straight line cuts could be dialed in by the operators.

posted by: Jpill

What we use at work for light interference fits which is what you have (except with rust ) Is an 8 hour freeze in dry ice of both parts. Then use a rosebud to heat the outer part while pressing or pulling with porto powers. This is on shaft couplings, shaft mounted fans, back stops etc. The idea being the outer parts thermal expansion will outrun the inner part when heat is applied. Some times all it takes is a jacking bolt and an impact wrench to get the parts moving you might try this with the vise screw.


posted by Cutter    05-07-2004

Stingers, Jpill & all of you who have contributed comments and suggestions,

I simply haven't had time to act on any of them this week. Its air conditioner season in Texas & I had a list of some 35 evaporative coolers to get serviced, repaired or replaced the last ten days. Some were easy, some took half a day. I am beat.
And I am taking a few days R&R to visit a foreign country about 200 miles south of Franziland with my personal trainer and therapist. Which means I will probably still be beat when I get back.
I'll be checking on you now & then but the old Wilton is on its own for a few days,

My thanks to all.


posted by: 7018

Well cutter i hpe u have a great time and get some rest!!

posted by: pturner

Re the Key: On my 4.5" wilton the key is loosely rivited to the movable jaw with like 3-1/8" rivets/pins. looks pretty weak (easy to shear off), but under no load in use.

hell, let me throw in my 2 cents worth:

Soak in diesel in black container in sun (to thermal cycle/warm diesel)

Freeze vise

Heat outer body with torch (preferably two torches on each side), while using borrowed porta power to pry apart. if you don't have access to a portapower, try driven wooden wedges

posted by: 7018

Found anpther vise today it is a no.204 1/2 R Reed MFG. Co, Erie PA. Pat no.2127008, 4 1/2 wide jaws, depth from slide to the top is 3 inchs, opens to 7 inchs,4 mounthung holes,1 locking bolt on the swivel.
Anyone ever heard of or saw one of theres?

posted by Cutter    05-25-2004

Just in case you were wondering ....

Well guys, I really dropped the ball on the old vise, schedule wise, meaning I didn't get the diesel bath going until this last Sunday. First of all, I had trouble coming up with an appropriately sized container; using the same garbage can just didn't appeal to me for several reasons, mainly because it seemed wasteful & kinda stoopid to have to buy 50 bucks worth of diesel for the experiment so I wanted a snugger fitting bucket. Finally I remembered having an old Zep soap can over in my barn somewhere but it took me a week to remember to get by there & find it. Then I had my little weekend R&R up in Hillaryland, got back on a Tuesday night & had to jump right back into the workworld and then yada-yada. Tempus fugits & all that. Then I couldn't remember to buy the diesel - until Sunday.

So I finally got organized and hauled the old carcass out of the de-rustifying can & let it drip-dry for a couple of hours, then lowered it into its new sarcaphogas. I knew it would be a fairly tight fit but there was actually more room than it looked like at first. By the way, that's not all rust inside; most of it is dried soap. I figured it wouldn't hurt, might even help & besides I am just naturally lazy. So I left it.

Fill 'er up

What I didn't really know was whether the old bucket would hold liquid. I poured a gallon or so in first & waited a few minutes to see how much seepage there might be & sure enough, a couple of drops appeared on the bottom-side seam after 5 or 6 minutes. I decided to try it anyway & filled it up until the whole thing was covered - no point in letting exposed areas re-rust while this is going on. After 2 full days, the seepage still looks about the same so I guess the Zep bucket will probably hold up.

I did not get around to tapping in some grease zerks a la Fla_Jim's suggestion. Maybe I will get guthered-up & do that the next weekend or two. Sure seems like a good idea. I do wonder if a grease gun will seal tightly enough to force liquid through the zerk, though.

So there she sits all sealed up in the West Texas heat; yesterday reached 97 degrees according to local weather folks. We can expect a lot of that for the next few months. I suppose I might wrap the can in black plastic to boost the effect a bit.

posted by: Banzaitoyota

so now we wait in rapid anticipation

posted by Cutter    05-25-2004


I have only noticed a reference to one other Reed vise; Rocky D posted this picture to the other board a few months back.
Maybe he won't mind if I steal it. This one one honking big-assed mothuh:

posted by: rusted

Thanks for the update, that's very thoughtful. You obviously realize for some of us, this has become a part of our life.