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posted by: fla jim
Ain't algor's internet great.
I saved the EDM info for a future project.
I think this would be great for broken taps and studs etc.
Thanks Franz.
 posted by
Cutter 05-02-2004
Somebody spell out "EDM"? This is all
new to me. I am not gonna use it on the vise, whatever it means but I want
to know about this.
posted by: fla jim
Cutter:
Thats"Electrical discharge machining"
Here's a link that explaines it better than I can.
http://www.mmsonline.com/edm/
posted by
Cutter 05-04-2004
Thanks Jim,
Somehow I just never noticed this process before, maybe because I don't
hang around high end machine shops.
 Interesting. I'll
read more later, gotta get to work.
posted by: stingers
Cutter;
fla jim got it on the EDM. Think of a band saw and instead of a saw blade
a wire EDM machine uses a thin brass wire. One spool holds the new wire
and a take-up spool winds up the used wire. It's kind of like MIR wire,
except it doesn't melt-just gets "used" and a little ratty looking. The
machine has a contact tip that passes an electrical current to the wire.
The part being machined has a ground wire that completes the circuit. The
wire passes through guides and the part being machined, running in the
slot that the wire "cuts" by making electrical discharges to the part.
It's like a minnie plasma arc that burns the metal and cuts a path for the
wire. The part and the wire is submerged in a bath that cools and carries
the "chips" or metal that gets discharged. Cutter, it's just like your
rust removal setup with the battery charger, just fancier.
We used them to make die punches and dies and very intricate parts out of
steel. Really amazing machines. Internal holes, cutouts, etc. are made by
first drilling a pilot hole for the feature. Then the machine operator
breaks the brass wire and feeds it through the clearance hole, winds it on
the take-up reel and then the feature is machined. When the process is
done, the wire is cut and the machine is repositioned to make more cuts if
required. The operator could set offsets on his controls to get the exact
dimensions for the part being made.
I wrote the programs to make the paper tapes that the machine used for
it's instructions to make the complex parts. Simple circles and straight
line cuts could be dialed in by the operators.
posted by: Jpill
What we use at work for light
interference fits which is what you have (except with rust
) Is an 8 hour freeze in
dry ice of both parts. Then use a rosebud to heat the outer part while
pressing or pulling with porto powers. This is on shaft couplings, shaft
mounted fans, back stops etc. The idea being the outer parts thermal
expansion will outrun the inner part when heat is applied. Some times all
it takes is a jacking bolt and an impact wrench to get the parts moving
you might try this with the vise screw.
Jeff
posted by
Cutter 05-07-2004
Stingers, Jpill & all of you who have
contributed comments and suggestions,
I simply haven't had time to act on any of them this week. Its air
conditioner season in Texas & I had a list of some 35 evaporative coolers
to get serviced, repaired or replaced the last ten days. Some were easy,
some took half a day. I am beat.
And I am taking a few days R&R to visit a foreign country about 200 miles
south of Franziland with my personal trainer and therapist.
 Which means I will
probably still be beat when I get back.
I'll be checking on you now & then but the old Wilton is on its own for a
few days,
My thanks to all.
cutter
posted by: 7018
Well cutter i hpe u have a great time
and get some rest!!
posted by: pturner
Re the Key: On my 4.5" wilton the key
is loosely rivited to the movable jaw with like 3-1/8" rivets/pins. looks
pretty weak (easy to shear off), but under no load in use.
hell, let me throw in my 2 cents worth:
Soak in diesel in black container in sun (to thermal cycle/warm diesel)
Freeze vise
Heat outer body with torch (preferably two torches on each side), while
using borrowed porta power to pry apart. if you don't have access to a
portapower, try driven wooden wedges
posted by: 7018
Found anpther vise today it is a no.204
1/2 R Reed MFG. Co, Erie PA. Pat no.2127008, 4 1/2 wide jaws, depth from
slide to the top is 3 inchs, opens to 7 inchs,4 mounthung holes,1 locking
bolt on the swivel.
Anyone ever heard of or saw one of theres?
posted by
Cutter 05-25-2004
Just in case you were wondering
....
Well guys, I really dropped the ball on
the old vise, schedule wise, meaning I didn't get the diesel bath going
until this last Sunday. First of all, I had trouble coming up with an
appropriately sized container; using the same garbage can just didn't
appeal to me for several reasons, mainly because it seemed wasteful &
kinda stoopid to have to buy 50 bucks worth of diesel for the experiment
so I wanted a snugger fitting bucket. Finally I remembered having an old
Zep soap can over in my barn somewhere but it took me a week to remember
to get by there & find it. Then I had my little weekend R&R up in
Hillaryland, got back on a Tuesday night & had to jump right back into the
workworld and then yada-yada. Tempus fugits & all that. Then I couldn't
remember to buy the diesel - until Sunday.
So I finally got organized and hauled the old carcass out of the de-rustifying
can & let it drip-dry for a couple of hours, then lowered it into its new
sarcaphogas. I knew it would be a fairly tight fit but there was actually
more room than it looked like at first. By the way, that's not all rust
inside; most of it is dried soap. I figured it wouldn't hurt, might even
help & besides I am just naturally lazy. So I left it.
Fill 'er up
What I didn't really know was whether
the old bucket would hold liquid. I poured a gallon or so in first &
waited a few minutes to see how much seepage there might be & sure enough,
a couple of drops appeared on the bottom-side seam after 5 or 6 minutes. I
decided to try it anyway & filled it up until the whole thing was covered
- no point in letting exposed areas re-rust while this is going on. After
2 full days, the seepage still looks about the same so I guess the Zep
bucket will probably hold up.
I did not get around to tapping in some grease zerks a la Fla_Jim's
suggestion. Maybe I will get guthered-up & do that the next weekend or
two. Sure seems like a good idea. I do wonder if a grease gun will seal
tightly enough to force liquid through the zerk, though.
So there she sits all sealed up in the West Texas heat; yesterday reached
97 degrees according to local weather folks. We can expect a lot of that
for the next few months. I suppose I might wrap the can in black plastic
to boost the effect a bit.
posted by: Banzaitoyota
so now we wait in rapid anticipation
posted by
Cutter 05-25-2004
Paul,
I have only noticed a reference to one other Reed vise; Rocky D posted
this picture to the other board a few months back.
Maybe he won't mind if I steal it. This one one honking big-assed mothuh:
posted by:
rusted
Thanks for the update, that's very
thoughtful. You obviously realize for some of us, this has become a part
of our life.
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