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posted by: OlPilot
That vise is hung up like two dogs
except unfortunately a bucket of water won't work. But I still think the
O/A trick with a rosebud might work. The reason is that iron oxide is a
lousy thermal conductor compared to cast steel. So you ought to be able to
apply a good amount of heat to the outside before much heat can transfer
through the rust to the inner piece and cause it to expand. Heating the
outer and chilling the inner sounds good, but it would be tough to figure
out how to chill that inner piece with CO2, R-134A, etc, without pulling
the heat away from the outer piece, so I think I'd just stick with heating
the outer section.
I'd still give Uncle Franz's magic potion more time to work, but if it
doesn't or you loose patience, then it'll be time to call in the O/A heavy
artillery. That's 60 KSI tensile cast steel, low on the Rockwell C-Scale,
so there no need to worry about knocking out heat treat (there really
isn't any) with O/A. Just don't melt the critter!
 posted
by Cutter 03-28-2004
Sigh.
There is no progress to report. I left it in the barrel 4 more days just
changing the electrode from time to time. Got a few more ounces of
rust & debris so I finally hoisted it back out yesterday afternoon and
tried pulling it apart with the comealong. No dice.
Then I hauled my little torch back there and tried a little heat but I ran
out of day light so I just left it with a
few hundred pounds of pull on it; it didn't look any different this
morning. I doubt this old torch (another story, by the way ) is big enough
to supply enough heat.
However, I did dream about it this morning just as I was waking up. In the
dream, I had reassembled it and
cranked it apart with the screw & that is probably worth a shot because
the screw exerts a straight line pull
whereas the chains & comealong pull at an angle sufficient to cause it to
bind. I guess the worst that could
happen would be that I might break the collar screws and have to fish them
out - again.
posted by: 7018
Well its worth a try cutter! like u say
u can only breakthe screws,but who knows mite work!!!!!!!!!!!!!
posted by: Franz
And here we see the disadvantage of
using cheap substitutes for the Genuin Uncle Franz Rust Dissolver. yes,
substitutes do work, sometimes, but your results won't be the same as
using the genuine original Uncle Franz secret formula Rust Dissolver.
WARNING, due to the price of fuel going up, Uncle Franz may not be able to
offer the Secret Ingredient at our currently low outrageous prices. Order
your kit now, before price increases take effect.
posted
by Cutter 03-28-2004
Uncle Franz' Secret Formulas
That reminds me, I need to prepare your
invoice for the month. I'll try to do that by tommorow.
Well, so much for that Sunday morning
dream; some dreams are just damn lies, I guess.
Here's a quick rundown on what happened Sunday.
I installed the nut & screw & collar, tuned the torch up for better heat
and did the best it would do to heat up the outer case with the screw
under pressure at all times. Finally I applied a 2 pound sledge to the
handle to try to break it loose & I was rewarded with 3 bent collar screws
and a slightly warped collar. So I flatted the collar back out by simply
reversing the screw and tried 3 more screws; this time 2 of them slipped
the threads before I gave up. I guess I may have to retap the screwholes
before this is over. I also tried standing the vise on end and squirting 3
in 1 penetrating oil on the inside for an hour, reversing it & applying it
to the other end for an hour or so, again with no noticeable effect. So I
polished up the electrodes and dropped her back in the water for a few
more days.
Monday I bought a can of PB Blaster to try next time I haul it back up to
the surface. It probably can't penetrate very deep but I guess every
little bit may pay off some day. This morning I re-read every post in this
thread & was reminded that I set out at one time to insert the rebar
through the hole to try to get more action inside but once the vise went
into the garbage can that idea sorta got lost; actually it just wasn't
practical until I removed the long nut because the rebar tended to short
out to it.
But since the nut is out of the way, I could try that approach again.
This has been going on now since March 2nd, almost a month. We have all
been able to see that electrolysis is a heck of a tool for removing
external rust & crud. I gotta remember that the cylinder of the front jaw
extends more than a foot into the main casting; that's a lot of area for
the internal rust to occupy so it's pretty easy to understand why it takes
so much time to "thaw". Even though the rust is pretty much gone from the
outside surface, it still is accumulating on the electrodes just as fast
so I can tell there is just about as much action taking place as ever. So,
it simply has to be making headway. Maybe that's what the dream was trying
to tell me. 
posted by: Newb
I got a chance to reload the snacks
during intermission. Have my credit card ready for more of Franz's
solution.
posted by: david_r
cutter,
There is a small gap on the jaws, right? Why not apply some judicious
force to try and close the vice? Seems to me when I'm trying to break
stuff appart that pounding on it does it better than pulling. I might even
try a little pounding along the body while the screw was in tension. The
vibrations may be enough.
Of course, if you crack it you're on your own.
posted
by Cutter 03-30-2004
Believe me, all these things have been
tried; I positioned a wooden block in front of the jaw & pounded it with
an 8lb. sledge without a hint of movement other than propelling the whole
thing gradually across the yard. The sides are already peppered with
hammer marks made while the jaw was under pressure in both directions.
I even dreamed about it again last night, seeing it slip apart with
virtually no effort. And I am the one who never remembers dreams anymore.
I am now pondering somehow removing the cupped piece at the back end to
expose that end of the cylinder, or whatever it is called, so that I can
contemplate some way of rigging up a jack or portapower to try to squeeze
it backwards from that end. But that piece is also locked in & there is
virtually nothing to grab or pry on to try to get it loose. I suspect it
has to be pressed in so that presents a major undertaking in itself.
This is the cone I am referring to: the cylinder end is immediately to the
right of the hole that takes the locking pin for the long nut. I also
think that removing that piece would allow for better electrolytic action
of the insides of the vise.
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