Cutter's Vise

Page 10

posted by: OlPilot

That vise is hung up like two dogs except unfortunately a bucket of water won't work. But I still think the O/A trick with a rosebud might work. The reason is that iron oxide is a lousy thermal conductor compared to cast steel. So you ought to be able to apply a good amount of heat to the outside before much heat can transfer through the rust to the inner piece and cause it to expand. Heating the outer and chilling the inner sounds good, but it would be tough to figure out how to chill that inner piece with CO2, R-134A, etc, without pulling the heat away from the outer piece, so I think I'd just stick with heating the outer section.

I'd still give Uncle Franz's magic potion more time to work, but if it doesn't or you loose patience, then it'll be time to call in the O/A heavy artillery. That's 60 KSI tensile cast steel, low on the Rockwell C-Scale, so there no need to worry about knocking out heat treat (there really isn't any) with O/A. Just don't melt the critter!

posted by Cutter    03-28-2004

There is no progress to report. I left it in the barrel 4 more days just changing the electrode from time to time.  Got a few more ounces of rust & debris so I finally hoisted it back out yesterday afternoon and tried pulling it apart with the comealong. No dice.
Then I hauled my little torch back there and tried a little heat but I ran out of day light so I just left it with a
few hundred pounds of pull on it; it didn't look any different this morning. I doubt this old torch (another story, by the way ) is big enough to supply enough heat.

However, I did dream about it this morning just as I was waking up. In the dream, I had reassembled it and
cranked it apart with the screw & that is probably worth a shot because the screw exerts a straight line pull
whereas the chains & comealong pull at an angle sufficient to cause it to bind. I guess the worst that could
happen would be that I might break the collar screws and have to fish them out - again.

posted by: 7018

Well its worth a try cutter! like u say u can only breakthe screws,but who knows mite work!!!!!!!!!!!!!

posted by: Franz

And here we see the disadvantage of using cheap substitutes for the Genuin Uncle Franz Rust Dissolver. yes, substitutes do work, sometimes, but your results won't be the same as using the genuine original Uncle Franz secret formula Rust Dissolver.
WARNING, due to the price of fuel going up, Uncle Franz may not be able to offer the Secret Ingredient at our currently low outrageous prices. Order your kit now, before price increases take effect.

posted by Cutter    03-28-2004

Uncle Franz' Secret Formulas

That reminds me, I need to prepare your invoice for the month. I'll try to do that by tommorow.

Well, so much for that Sunday morning dream; some dreams are just damn lies, I guess.

Here's a quick rundown on what happened Sunday. I installed the nut & screw & collar, tuned the torch up for better heat and did the best it would do to heat up the outer case with the screw under pressure at all times. Finally I applied a 2 pound sledge to the handle to try to break it loose & I was rewarded with 3 bent collar screws and a slightly warped collar. So I flatted the collar back out by simply reversing the screw and tried 3 more screws; this time 2 of them slipped the threads before I gave up. I guess I may have to retap the screwholes before this is over. I also tried standing the vise on end and squirting 3 in 1 penetrating oil on the inside for an hour, reversing it & applying it to the other end for an hour or so, again with no noticeable effect. So I polished up the electrodes and dropped her back in the water for a few more days.

Monday I bought a can of PB Blaster to try next time I haul it back up to the surface. It probably can't penetrate very deep but I guess every little bit may pay off some day. This morning I re-read every post in this thread & was reminded that I set out at one time to insert the rebar through the hole to try to get more action inside but once the vise went into the garbage can that idea sorta got lost; actually it just wasn't practical until I removed the long nut because the rebar tended to short out to it.
But since the nut is out of the way, I could try that approach again.

This has been going on now since March 2nd, almost a month. We have all been able to see that electrolysis is a heck of a tool for removing external rust & crud. I gotta remember that the cylinder of the front jaw extends more than a foot into the main casting; that's a lot of area for the internal rust to occupy so it's pretty easy to understand why it takes so much time to "thaw". Even though the rust is pretty much gone from the outside surface, it still is accumulating on the electrodes just as fast so I can tell there is just about as much action taking place as ever. So, it simply has to be making headway. Maybe that's what the dream was trying to tell me.

posted by: Newb

I got a chance to reload the snacks during intermission. Have my credit card ready for more of Franz's solution.

posted by: david_r

There is a small gap on the jaws, right? Why not apply some judicious force to try and close the vice? Seems to me when I'm trying to break stuff appart that pounding on it does it better than pulling. I might even try a little pounding along the body while the screw was in tension. The vibrations may be enough.

Of course, if you crack it you're on your own.

posted by Cutter    03-30-2004

Believe me, all these things have been tried; I positioned a wooden block in front of the jaw & pounded it with an 8lb. sledge without a hint of movement other than propelling the whole thing gradually across the yard. The sides are already peppered with hammer marks made while the jaw was under pressure in both directions.

I even dreamed about it again last night, seeing it slip apart with virtually no effort. And I am the one who never remembers dreams anymore.

I am now pondering somehow removing the cupped piece at the back end to expose that end of the cylinder, or whatever it is called, so that I can contemplate some way of rigging up a jack or portapower to try to squeeze it backwards from that end. But that piece is also locked in & there is virtually nothing to grab or pry on to try to get it loose. I suspect it has to be pressed in so that presents a major undertaking in itself.

This is the cone I am referring to: the cylinder end is immediately to the right of the hole that takes the locking pin for the long nut. I also think that removing that piece would allow for better electrolytic action of the insides of the vise.