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 posted by
Cutter
Tar Trouble
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I don't know that the world is coming to but these 30 year old tars just
don't hold up like the old ones did.
So I gotta get some new tires for my baby tractors & these silly things
are kinda pricey, too. I think I could re-shoe my Cherokee for just about
the same money.
First picture shows the results of trying to seal up a 1976 model genuine
Sears tire with Slime; can you spot the leaks? Not shown are the sidewall
cracks that also made purty bubbles. The other rear tire is still holding
it's own but the other project Craftsman (Whites) tractor is going to need
new rubber, too so I need at least one matched pair & a spare for the time
being.
I lucked out & found one new tire at Jan's Parts & Things for $25; it was
the only 23x9.50 12 she had in stock & she does not want to re-order
because she says the internet has ruined the tire business. Actually, by
the time you factor in shipping, I doubt there is much savings based on
what I have seen so far, & she agreed but said her customers like to think
the freight is negligible when they're comparing prices.
Picture #2:
So here are my questions for you guys. Most of the tires I find on ebay
are the Turf tread (on the right) but I am curious about the old Ag tread
(pictured on the left). I am also leaning towards a 4 ply if I can locate
the right combinations of tread/ply. So what do you think? Is one tread
pattern better than the other? Are the 4plys significantly better
load-wise than the 2 ply? Is the puncture resistance greater? Any other
thoughts?
Attached Images leaks-pan.jpg (27.4 KB, 162 views)
ag-turf-pan.jpg (22.6 KB, 148 views)
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cutter
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posted by lwhiway 10-11-2006
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Cutter, I do apologize for not replying sooner (yesterday afternoon) on
this, but I was caught with my pants down and was boiling 3 year old
coffee for a caffeine fix and needing to get to work.
The tread pattern depends on what your yard condition is usually in. IMO,
if you have a normally wet, soft or usually mushy cutting condition, I
would assume that a softer and less pronounced tread profile would be
needed. This would allow for mowing without leaving the lug tracks. Of
course if you needed the extra grip, of course the lug profile would be
advantageous.
From what I see in the pics that you and your neighbor members have
offered of the ground and dry conditions, it would appear that no matter
what tread type is used, nothing will not make a dent in the yard/ground.
Depending on what type of compound was used in the manufacture of the tire
will be the bigger factor in tire life in terms of wear. The difference of
the ag lug tread compared to a typical turf tread, the turf has more
surface in contact with the ground at all times and the ag lug as you can
see has much less. If you do a lot of riding on concrete or asphalt type
surfaces, the lug will probably wear faster or should I say, would be more
noticeable.
From past experience with 2ply and 4ply lawn tractor tires, the 4ply will
give not give up as easily to punctures, as in rolling over debris(nails
will still be nails) and will carry more load. But the loading is more of
a felt or intuition sort of thing, more so than a known value.
In our little tractor world, I wouldn't think that one tread profile would
have much gain over the other in terms of normal use. If your adding a
nitrous system, I would suggest a turf tread tire as they are smoother on
asphalt and vibrate less at higher speeds.
Cutter, I have a good set of turf tread tires that came with the Wheel
Horse, but I am looking for a set of lugged tires for appearance rather
than necessity and will keep the other set handy in case they are needed.
And I agree, tires for these mowers are more than a little over-priced in
my opinion. Just be glad you aren't buying them for a taller and higher hp
tractor.
Of course like all rubber tires, keeping them cleaned and dressed with
tire care products does seem to help.
LW
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Sometimes having the sign out front just makes it that much easier to find
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1.
posted by frank 10-11-2006
Whep
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I have noticed that "dry rot" of lawn tires (tars????) seems to be the
norm. Used to keep my mower in a shed and the tires lasted maby 2 years
before they started to leak. Mostly side wall leaks. A friend used to
paint the inside of the tires with a thick goo and let it dry. The tires
would not leak. I tried to get some but friend said it is no longer made.
Does the Slime work long term or just slow down the leak? I have to do
something soon as my 2 rear tires wont hold air fore more than a few days.
Frank
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Hobart Hefty CC/Cv, Airco HF, Profax spool gun,Victor and Smith torchs,
and the latest addition... A Katrina throw away MM130. It has been revived
and works quite well.Add a Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC, another Katrina
junker has been revived.Total cost to repair both less than $200.00.
frank
posted by randydupree 10-11-2006
sears tractor
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cutter,i can't help on the tires but i did sleep at a holiday inn last
nite!
ha!
i have a 10hp sears tractor that my dad bought new when i was about 10
years old,i'm 51. its always been kept inside but until just last spring
it was used every week to mow.
i bought it from my dad 20 years ago,and i mowed 3-4 acres with it
weekly,my dad mowed 2.5 acres weekly when he had it.
when my daughter bought a house i "loaned" her the tractor,her husband has
mowed a 1 acre lot with it for 5-6 years now.last spring he bought a MTD
(made to die) tractor because my tractor was so old!
so,now i have it back.
i broke the cast aluim grill out when i was 15,push starting my 47 chevy
pickup.other than that it needs paint,the tires look like yours,even say
sears on the sidewalls.mine still hold air.
randy
randydupree
posted by moe1942 10-11-2006
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I have an Original Cub Cadet (ancient) with one original rear tire. The
other six CC's have tires that are very old. Haven't had any problems. One
I use to cut the grass with is getting bald to the point that I can see
the air. Time to change out.
As far as tread design, I use turf tires for lawn work and AG tires when I
need traction and ruts don't matter. I wouldn't spend the extra money for
4 ply. They will get punctured also. For small leak control I use
fix-a-flat. The secret is to install it then run the tractor round and
round at its highest speed until the stuff is distributed all around the
inside. Slime is pricey and overrated..MHO.
Keep your tires covered if stored outside. UV is a rubber killer.
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posted by boilerman 10-11-2006
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put a damn tube in it and be done with it
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posted by Dobber 10-11-2006
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The 4 ply's that I have can lose a lot of air before you can even notice
the difference. Might be more to do with the sidewalls than the tread plys
though.
The Ag tires are for ground engaging operations. Work great if you push or
drag something, especially if your lifestyle doesn't provide much ballast.
In my case, my lifestyle has provided an abundance of ballast. My big butt
on the seat and turf tires probably equal an average size guy with Ag
tires for traction.
Dobber
posted by Jim-TX 10-11-2006
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I run some pink colored sealer in mower and ATV tires with really good
success. Our local General Tire store sells it. They can pump it out of a
5 gal can or sell it in tubes that go in calking guns. I get plenty of
mesquite thorns and this stuff will pretty much keep a tire from leaking
unless it sits in one place for a long time and the sealer all ends up in
the bottom of the tire. If anyone wants the brand name I can find out.
posted by dubby 10-11-2006
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I like the bumpety-bump of the ag tires myself. I don't care for the
rubber marks they leave in the driveway when turning though.
A few years ago I had a little cub cadet mower that I was trying to
"fix-up". It needed new tires all around, and after a trip to the supply
store to check prices I quit working on it. Traded it off for a pile of
scrap metal and a chicken. Sometimes I kick myself for it, but overall I
don't regret my decision.
posted by Ike 10-11-2006
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i agree with boilerman, put a tube in it and then have a beer.
Ike
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posted by SmokinDodge 10-11-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike
i agree with boilerman, put a tube in it and then have a beer.
Ike
Ditto. And quit using that fix a flat crap in a can. All it is good for is
to rust the rim and make it a PIA to repair the tire/tar when the time
comes. (Tire repairman experince speaking here)
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Every one's entitled to their opinion, even if it is wrong.
posted by
cutter
10-11-2006
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I did not use fix-a-flat in a can; that was someone else - Moe, I think.
I tried to use Slime in a bottle. It didn't do any good and it did make a
damned mess.
Funny coincidence, but this afternoon, the other rear tire which had never
given me any trouble suffered a
puncture & went down while I was moving my trailer. Had to plug it before
I ran the tractor back around
the corner to put it up. Now, what good would a tube have done me in that
situation?
__________________
cutter
posted by Ggg 10-12-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutter
Had to plug it before I ran the tractor back around
the corner to put it up. Now, what good would a tube have done me in that
situation?
Unless I misunderstand you a new tire would have been of no help either, a
puncture is a puncture. But you can buy several tubes for the price of a
new tar and keep those old tars filled with air.
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posted by SmokinDodge 10-12-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutter
Now, what good would a tube have done me in that situation?
Well, a tube patch is like 79 cents.........................
I got a set of small tire spoons for doing lawn mowers and motor cycle
tires for around $14 and a tub of patches for around three dollars from
the local tractor store. After three flat repairs it's all paid for and
when I get a flat Sunday afternoon I dont have to wait for the tire store
to open!
__________________
Every one's entitled to their opinion, even if it is wrong.
posted by
cutter 10-12-2006
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Ah but the tube patch would require "spooning" that tire off the rim -
after I jacked the tractor up & pulled the wheel.
I just plugged the hole & aired it back up.
posted by bgott 10-12-2006
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There is mention of foam filling in this FAQ . The author doesn't like it
for small tractors but it damn sure will stop your flats! I believe I've
read about a foam filling that is softer than the usual stuff. You might
try doing a search on Tractorbynet, I think that is where I read about it.
posted by SmokinDodge 10-13-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutter
Ah but the tube patch would require "spooning" that tire off the rim -
after I jacked the tractor up & pulled the wheel.
I just plugged the hole & aired it back up.
Just not the comment I expected to come from the guy that felt lines his
hand made capacitor straps.
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posted by
cutter 10-13-2006
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lololololol
<snip of more lol>
and
lololololol
but that was because I wanted the converter to be classy & there really is
nothing classier about putting
a patch on a tube over poking a plug into a tire. However, I do think I
can go along with using a tube in
the tire I just replaced - on the next tractor, at least while I am trying
to get it running. No point in
buying a hunnerd dollars worth of tars for a pig in a poke, no?
posted by boilerman 10-13-2006
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if i'm not mistaken the complaint was the side wall CRACKS where
leaking..yep just rechecked ....not the punture in the other tire....well
slime is B.S. and the guy that made it should have him slf cut for it
...to fix sidewall crack,cuts, holes ...put a tube in it
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